Microsoft 360 Wheel: Gek Spec

Wheel Bearing Mod : Wheel Centering Fix : Pedal Mod : Brake Mod

To get inside the base of the wheel you will have to remove the grey lap plate which is attached by security torx screws that have a small metal column in the center prevent use of a normal torx driver. If you do not have a T10 security torx driver I found that it you insert a 1/16 drill bit and then with a quick spin in reverse you should be able to pop the little security column right out allowing you to use a normal torx driver. There are two screws beneath the sticker in the center. Once the grey lap plate is removed you will be left with the white base but there will be no more security torx screws to worry about, only normal torx screws

Remove the six screws securing the face plate of the wheel with an allen wrench to get to the 4 additional allen screws that hold the grip of the wheel to the white spindle.

Before you remove the wheel detach the two connectors and ground wire. Gently pull the connectors through the spindle one at a time.

Remove the metal plate from the base. Before you do, it would be a good idea to make sure the spindle is centered so when you go back to reattach this plate you will have an easier time centering the wheel when you are putting it back together.

There is a thin plastic cover that needs to be removed to get access to the torx screws. I used a sharp pin and pushed the cover out from behind the small vent holes.

For the bearing mod I used a 45mm 75mm 16mm sealed bearing. If you can find a 61809-2RS1 bearing that is 45mm 60mm 8mm you may have an easier time. The spindle tapers out stopping the bearing from fitting down to the cog. You will need to shave down the spindle to fit the bearing but it must maintain a snug fit. For this I found a local general machinist to use a lathe to shave the spindle.

Remove the original white bushing.

Remove the grey plastic that held the white bushing in place. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel bit.

Use a very small amount of epoxy to fix the outer metal sleeve of the bearing to the plastic thus creating a seal.

Lay down a thin layer of epoxy around the outside of the bearing the then put in digital quality coaxial cable and another layer of epoxy over the cable. Make sure to leave a gap for the cog that is attached to the metal plate and be sure the epoxy does not rise above the top of the bearing.

The spindle was shaved down to the point where it would require a hammer to make it fit the bearing. Instead of using a hammer I found that sticking the spindle in the freezer for thirty minutes allowed the spindle to slide right into the bearing at which point it immediately expanded creating a very snug fit in the bearing.

If you are going to spray I suggest using a paint for plastic surfaces and be sure you protect any screw holes from the paint.

To secure the base to my stand I drilled 1/4th holes for my 1/4th bolts and put epoxy on both sides of the washers to secure the bolts to the base.

When reattaching the metal plate there will be a gap created by the bearing. The original screws will be too short so I suggest using 4 X 3/4 metal screws with #6 washers. Be careful to tighten the screws evenly as all the force is now placed on the spindle, too much force and it will make turning the wheel more difficult. To create spacers in order to limit the force on the spindle I place a single #6 washer between the metal plate and the dark plastic for the further most screws. For the screws closest to you in this picture, I used a 1/4 nutt and 4-5 #6 washers. (Not pictured yet)

The bearing also caused one of the copper motor connectors to interfere with the placement of adjacent PCB. Gently bending the connector up allowed everything to fit. I also needed to trim back the dark plastic on the wheel column to fit the wheel back onto the spindle.

If there is an issue of the wheel improperly centering you should first try to adjust the cogs. Unfortunately that did not solve the problem for me so I had to adjust the position sensor which is located on the light silicon board. Remove the screws holding the brown silicon board, power on the wheel and the Xbox 360. The wheel should try to center itself, now you can gently rotate the brown silicon board until you find the position it needs to be to allow the wheel to be centered.

Remove all the power sources from the wheel and remove the cable connected to the position sensor. You will now need to adjust the screw holes, to do this I used the dremel with a ball drill bit moving the left screw hole down and to the right and the right screw hole up and to the left. This may vary depending on how your wheel was initially centering.

Taking the pedals apart you need only a normal T10 torx driver and once again there are two screws hidden below the sticker. Cut all the wires in half. The rj11 connector will come away with ease. To cut the pedals I used a jug saw with a 'thin metal' blade. I found that I had to pulse the saw or else the heat would case the plastic to melt behind the blade and thus reconnecting the plastic behind the blade.

To rewire I used the individual wires of an old USB ribbon. Twisted, soldered and wrapped with electrical tape. This is a good time to test the functionality of the pedals before you move on.

I ran out of epoxy to use on the bolts for the pedals so I used gorilla glue which worked great but be careful as it expands as it dries. To create a more realistic feeling on the brake pedal I used a piece of the foam rubber that came with my replacement Xbox 360. Currently the foam is held on with electrical tape incase it needs to be replaced in the future.

If you have any questions you can e-mail me: E-Mail